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    September 07

    Des bulles et des oreilles - Bubbles and ears

    Las de la grisaille, mes affaires toujours humides commencant meme a presenter des signes de developpement avance de moisissure, et mon travail avec le gouvernement Tibetain fini, je m’arrete une semaine en Thailande sur la vraiment sympathique ile de Ko Tao.

    Je retrouve deux amies americaines (ben oui quoi, accusez-moi de traitrise peut-etre mais j’ai des amis aux US) et loue un bungalow des plus basiques (= lit-moustiquaire) mais en bord d’une plage quasi-privee, l’hotel etant accessible par bateau ou après ¾ heure de marche sur un sentier pour equilibriste ayant grandi dans la jungle.

    Au menu, farniente, lecture dans un hamac, jus d’ananas, plouf et petits poissons dans l’eau et dans l’assiette. Et du soleil, enfin, mais qui me transforme bien vite en crevette rose, la faute a la mauvaise creme solaire locale.

    La plage ensoleillee etant hors de question pendant 2-3 jours, j’en profite pour passer mon premier niveau de plongee, le PADI open water pour les connaisseurs, dans un club top sympa et des conditions ideales : un instructeur pour moi tout seul et allemand de surcroit, donc carre, c’est bete mais ca me rassure. Forcement, le 1er jour j’arrive ave brio a me remplir les sinus et oreilles internes d’eau pendant un exercice de vidage de masque sous l’eau. S’ensuit une otite et pas mal de difficultes a compenser la pression en descendant, cf. ce qui arrive en avion puissance beaucoup. Lors de la 1ere plongee, je suscite ainsi le desespoir de mon instructeur que je peux presque entendre crier ‘Donnerwetter’ sous l’eau, essayez c’est rigolo. Les autres plongees se passent mieux et je decouvre un monde parfois claustrophobique (0 visibilite et j’ai l’impression de respirer comme un Darth Vader asthmatique) mais surtout fascinant et magnifique. Ah, les bancs de barracudas argentes qui m’entourent ! Oh, la belle raie a points bleues. Hi hi, les petites machins (anemones ?) bleus oranges et gris qui se ferment quand on approche le doigt, comme on eteindrait des lumieres par magie…

    Je repasse par Hong-Kong saluer Juliette et les œufs de cent ans, et en profite pour aller me faire soigner mon otite a l’hopital, car vol de retour il y a. Les urgences, top classe, nickel chrome et pas un chat, une infirmiere s’approche avec un bidule pour regarder dans les oreilles, me verifie la gauche, je tends donc la droite. Ca n’a rien a voir avec la Bible c’est juste un reflexe conditionne. Surprise mais conciliante, elle me verifie donc la droite pour me montrer ensuite que j’ai bien la meme temperature dans les deux oreilles. C’etait donc ca… Juliette est morte de rire, moi je suis rassure quelque part. Nouvel exploit chez le docteur John (il a plutot une tete a s’appeler LinFunKwah mais John c’est plus pratique pour les etrangers barbares que nous sommes), quand je telephone a la grand-mere de Juliette pensant appeler mon assurance. Dialogue de sourd, otite, j’enchaine… il est grand temps de rentrer en France.

     

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    Tired of this grey weather, my clothes and bags always humid and some even presenting signs of advanced mushrooming, and my work with the Tibetan government completed, I stop over for one week in Thailand on the really nice Ko Tao island.

    There I catch up with 2 American friends (you can call me a traitor to the cause but yes I do have good friends in the US) and rent a fairly basic bungalow (bed + mosquito net) but located right by a semi-private beach. The resort is indeed only accessible after a 15mn boat ride or ¾ of an hour walk on a jungle path for equilibrists.

    On the agenda: farniente, reading in a hammock, pineapple shakes, splash and little fishes in the water and my plate. And finally some sun, which of course turns me immediately into a giant pink prawn, due to this poor local sun cream.

    Laying on the sunny beach being out of the question for the next 2-3 days, I decide to learn scuba diving and pass the PADI open water certificate. The conditions are ideal since I end up alone with the instructor, and a German guy as well, so fairly square and safe I think, at least it makes me feel good. Of course on the first day I successfully manage to fill my sinuses and inner ear with water while learning how to empty a mask under water. Thus I get an otitis and some difficulties equalizing the pressure when going down, for reference see what happens in planes much much stronger. On the first dive my instructor is desperate and I can nearly him in swear ‘Donnerwetter’ under water, you should try it it’s fun. The other dives are better and I discover a brand new world, at times claustrophobic (there is no visibility by ‘Shark Island’ and I breathe like an asthmatic Darth Vader) but above all fascinating and wonderful. Ahh, these groups of silver barracudas circling us ! Oh, the pretty blue-spotted ray. Hi hi, these small blue orange or grey thingies (anemones?) that close when you get your finger too close, like you would shut down lights by magic…

    I go back to Hong-Kong to say hi to Juliette and thousand years old eggs, and take the opportunity to go to the hospital and have my otitis cured before the flight back. The ER is amazingly clean and quiet, a nurse comes forth with the tool to look inside ears, checks my left one and is surprised when I show her the right one. It has nothing too do with the Bible it’s just an acquired reflex. She checks the right one and shows me proudly that both my ears show the same temperature. So that was it… Juliette is laughing, I feel stupid but strangely re-assured. New performance in Doctor John’s office (he looks like his name should rather be WangChong but I guess John is easier for those barbarian foreigners) when I call Juliette’s grandma instead of my insurance company. Deaf dialogue, otitis, it looks like it’s time for me to go home.

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